8/26/2019 Omega Seamaster History
The Omega Seamaster was originally introduced in 1947. Todayâs Aqua Terra bears the closest resemblance to the original with a dressier (yet, sporty) look, but it has still evolved a bit since then.
Coordinates: 47°08â²37â³N7°15â²36â³E / 47.14362°N 7.25998°E
Omega SA is a Swiss luxury watchmaker based in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland.[1] Founded by Louis Brandt in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1848, the company formally operated as the La Generale Watch Co. until incorporating the name Omega in 1903, becoming Louis Brandt et Frère - Omega Watch & Co..[2][3][4] In 1982, the company officially changed its name to Omega SA, which is currently a subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group.[1] Omega opened its museum to the public in Biel/Bienne in January 1984.[5][6]
Britain's Royal Flying Corps chose Omega watches in 1917 as its official timekeepers for its combat units, as did the U.S. Army in 1918. Omega watches were the choice of NASA in 1965 on the Gemini 3 mission and the first watch worn on the Moon in 1969.[7][8] In addition, Omega has been the official timekeeping device of the Olympic Games since 1932.[9]James Bond has worn it in films since 1995; other famous Omega wearers, past and present, include Buzz Aldrin, George Clooney, John F. Kennedy, Mao Zedong, Elvis Presley and Prince William.[10][11][12]
History[edit]Early history[edit]
The workbench of Louis Brandt with a photograph of the founder
The forerunner of Omega, La Generale Watch Co., was founded at La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland in 1848 by Louis Brandt, who assembled key-wound precision pocket watches from parts supplied by local craftsmen.[13] He sold his watches from Italy to Scandinavia by way of England, his chief market. In 1894, his two sons Louis-Paul and César developed a revolutionary in-house manufacturing and total production control system that allowed component parts to be interchangeable. Watches developed with these techniques were marketed under the Omega brand of La Generale Watch Co. By 1903 the success of the Omega brand led to La Generale Watch Co to spin off the Omega brand as its own company, and the Omega Watch Co was officially founded in 1903.
Re-organization[edit]
Louis-Paul and César Brandt both died in 1903, leaving one of Switzerland's largest watch companies â with 240,000 watches produced annually and employing 800 people â in the hands of four young people, the oldest of whom, Paul-Emile Brandt, was not yet 24.
Brandt was the great architect and builder of Omega.[14] His influence would be felt over the next half-century. The economic difficulties brought on by the First World War would lead him to work actively from 1925 toward the union of Omega and Tissot, then to their merger in 1930 into the group SSIH, Geneva.
Under Brandt's leadership and Joseph Reiser's from 1955, the SSIH Group continued to grow and multiply, absorbing or creating some fifty companies, including Lanco and Lemania, manufacturer of the most famous Omega chronographmovements. By the 1970s, SSIH had become Switzerland's number one producer of finished watches and number three in the world. Up to this time, the Omega brand outsold Rolex, its main Swiss rival in the luxury watch segment, although Rolex watches sold at a higher price point. Around this time it was viewed as Rolex versus Omega in the competition for the 'King of Swiss Watch brands'. Omega watches tended to be more revolutionary and more professional focused, while Rolex watches were more âevolutionaryâ and famous for their mechanical pieces and brand.[15][16][17]
While Omega and Rolex had dominated in the pre-quartz era, this changed in the 1970s during the quartz crisis. That was when Japanese watch manufacturers such as Seiko and Citizen rose to dominance due to their pioneering of quartz movement. In response, Rolex continued concentrating on its expensive mechanical chronometers where its expertise lay (though it did have some experimentation in quartz), while Omega tried to compete with the Japanese in the quartz watch market with Swiss made quartz movements.[15]
Recent development[edit]
Omega Seamaster De Ville, an early 'waterproof' watch, with automatic movement and date, in 14k gold
Weakened by the severe monetary crisis and recession of 1975 to 1980, SSIH was bailed out by the banks in 1981.[18] During this period, Seiko expressed interest in acquiring Omega, but nothing came out of the talks.
Switzerland's other watch making giant Allgemeine Schweizerische Uhrenindustrie AG (ASUAG - supplier of a large range of Swiss movements and watch assemblers) was in economic difficulty. It was the principal manufacturer of Ãbauche (unfinished movements) and owner, through their sub-holding company General Watch Co (GWC), of various other Swiss watch brands including Longines, Rado, Certina, Hamilton Watch Company and Mido.
After drastic financial restructuring, the R&D departments of ASUAG and SSIH merged production operations at the ETA complex in Granges. The two companies completely merged forming ASUAG-SSIH, a holding company, in 1983.
Two years later this holding company was taken over by a group of private investors led by Nicolas Hayek. Renamed SMH, Société de Microélectronique et d'Horlogerie, this new group over the next decade proceeded to become one of the top watch producers in the world.[19] In 1998 it became the Swatch Group, which now manufactures Omega and other brands such as Blancpain, Swatch, and Breguet.
Omega's brand experienced a resurgence with advertisement that focused on product placement strategies, such as in the James Bond 007 films; the character had previously worn a Rolex Submariner but switched to the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M with GoldenEye (1995) and has stayed with the latter ever since until swapping it for the Omega Planet Ocean and Aqua Terra. Omega also adopted many elements of Rolex's business model (i.e. premium pricing, tighter controls of dealer pricing, increasing advertising, etc.) which was successful in increasing Omega's market share and name recognition to become more of a direct competitor to Rolex.[15][20][21]
Motto and slogan[edit]
One of Omega's company slogans is 'Omega â Exact time for life'. [22][23] The slogan was developed in 1931 based on the company's historical performance at the Observatory trials.[23]
Watch manufacturing[edit]Notable inventions and patents[edit]
Omega Constellation - 18k rose gold - 1958
Observatory trials[edit]
Omega Genève Cal. 613
Observatory trials focused on the science of Chronometry and the ability to make chronometers measure time precisely. Only Patek Philippe and Omega participated every year in the trials. Omega's performances at these competitions garnered the company a reputation of precision and innovation.[34]
For more than a decade (1958 â 1969), Omega was the largest manufacturer of COSC chronometers. Omega developed the slogan 'Omega â Exact time for life' in 1931 based on its historical performance at the Observatory trials.[23] Omega's early prowess in designing and regulating timing movements was made possible by the company's incorporation of new chronometric innovations.[34]
The following are some important reference dates for the Omega precision records:[34]
Environmental rating[edit]
Top 5 gold producing nations
In December 2018, World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) released an official report giving environmental ratings for 15 major watch manufacturers and jewelers in Switzerland.[36][37] Omega, along with 7 other manufacturers including Patek Philippe, Breguet and Rolex, was given the lowest environmental rating as 'Latecomers/Non-transparent', suggesting that the manufacturer has taken very few actions addressing the impact of its manufacturing activities on the environment and climate change.[36][37]
There are concerns over the lack of transparency in manufacturing activities and the sourcing of precious raw materials such as gold, which is a major cause of environmental issues such as pollution, soil degradation and deforestation.[36][37] The situation is especially serious in the developing countries which are also top producers of gold, including China, Russia and South Africa.[38][39][40][41] It is estimated that the watch and jewelry sector uses over 50% of world's annual gold production (over 2,000 tons), but in most cases the watch companies are not able to or are unwilling to demonstrate where their raw materials come from and if the material suppliers use eco-friendly sourcing technologies.[36]
Notable models[edit]Most expensive pieces[edit]
Men's collection[edit]
Rare Seamaster chronometer in stainless steel case with rose gold markers, ca. 1949
Current models:[48]
Discontinued models:[49]
Omega medical chronograph with outer pulsations track, ca. 1951
Women's collection[edit]
Current models:[50]
Notable patrons and owners[edit]
Seamaster 120M Analog-Digital 'Multifunction' was introduced in 1998 and discontinued after few years, Fitted with Omega Cal.1665
Brand ambassadors[edit]
Omega sponsors a number of celebrities to wear and advertise their watches including:[51]
Celebrities[edit]
A Omega pocket watch (1900)
Politicians[edit]
Others[edit]
Historic events[edit]
The Omega Speedmaster, or 'Moonwatch', selected by NASA for all the Apollo missions
Space exploration[edit]
The selection of the 'Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph' for American astronauts was the subject of a rivalry between Omega and Bulova.[72]
All subsequent manned NASA missions also used this handwound wristwatch. NASA started selecting the chronograph in the early 1960s. Automatic chronograph wristwatches were not available until 1969. Even so, all the instrument panel clocks and time-keeping mechanisms in the spacecraft on those space missions were Bulova Accutrons with tuning fork movements,[citation needed] because at the time NASA did not know how well a mechanical movement would work in zero gravity.[citation needed]
First watch on the moon[edit]
The Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph was the first watch on the Moon, worn by Buzz Aldrin. Although Apollo 11 commander Neil Armstrong was first to set foot on the moon, he left his 105.012 Speedmaster inside the Lunar Module as a backup because the LM's electronic timer had malfunctioned. Aldrin elected to wear his and so his Speedmaster became the first watch to be worn on the moon. Armstrong's watch is now displayed at the National Air and Space Museum in Washington, D.C.[73] Aldrin's was lost. He mentions in his book, Return to Earth, that when donating several items to the Smithsonian Institution, his Omega was one of the few things that was stolen from his personal effects.[74]
In 2007, to mark the 50th anniversary of the Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph, the Omega company unveiled the commemorative Speedmaster Professional Chronograph Moonwatch. The watch had the distinctive features of the first hand-winding Omega Speedmaster introduced in 1957. It was sold in an edition of 1,957.[75]
Sponsorship[edit]
NCIS
In the US television series NCIS, lead actor Mark Harmon wears an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean with supporting cast member Michael Weatherly wearing a matching version. In both cases, this is the stainless steel model with orange bezel and black dial.
Need for Speed
Omega is the official timekeeper for the video game Need for Speed II, released on Microsoft Windows and PlayStation in 1997.[76]
Kojak
In the US television series Kojak, lead actor Telly Savalas wore a gold-plated Omega Time Computer One, the first mass-produced LED watch.
James Bond
The Omega Seamaster, a deep diving watch. The second crown (at 10 o'clock) is a helium release valve to allow helium out of the watch after diving at great depth. The watch is similar to that shown in recent James Bond films, in which this valve is transformed into improbable hidden gadgets.
Omega has been associated with James Bond movies since 1995. That year, Pierce Brosnan took over the role of James Bond and began wearing the Omega Seamaster Quartz Professional (model 2541.80.00) in the movie GoldenEye. In all later films, Brosnan wore an Omega Seamaster Professional Chronometer (model 2531.80.00). The producers wanted to update the image of the fictional 'super-spy' to a more distinctly sophisticated 'Euro' look.[77]
Another possible reason for the change from the Rolex Submariner that Bond had previously worn was a change in the business environment surrounding modern films and product placement. Omega was eager to participate in high-profile co-promotions/product placement opportunities, especially the James Bond franchise, to further its brand image/awareness. It accomplished this by supplying products and finance (something that the conservative Rolex company avoids, presumably because it sees no benefit for itself).[78]
For the 40th anniversary of James Bond (2002) a commemorative edition of the watch was made available model 2537.80.00 (10,007 units). The watch is identical to the model 2531.80.00 except the blue watch dial had a 007 logo inscribed across it and also machined into the caseback. The band also had 007 inscribed on the clasp.[79]
Daniel Craig, the current James Bond since Casino Royale, also wears the Omega Seamaster: the Seamaster Planet Ocean (model 2900.50.91) in the first part of Casino Royale, and the Seamaster Professional 300M (model 2220.80.00) in the latter part (from travelling to Montenegro). He even goes so far as to mention Omega by name when questioned by Vesper Lynd. In connection with the launch of the film, Omega released in 2006 an 007-special of the Professional 300M, (model 2226.80.00) featuring the 007-gun logo on the second hand and the rifle pattern on the watch face, this being a stylized representation of the gun barrel sequence of Bond movies.[80]
Omega released a second James Bond limited edition watch in 2006. This was a Seamaster Planet Ocean model with a limited production of 5007 units. The model is similar to what Craig wears earlier on in the film; however, it has a small orange colored 007 logo on the second hand, an engraved caseback signifying the Bond connection, and an engraved 007 on the clasp.[81]
In the 2008 movie Quantum of Solace, Craig wears the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean with a black face and steel bracelet (42mm version). Another limited edition was released featuring the checkered 'PPK grip' face with the Quantum of Solace logo over it.[82] The third limited edition release from Omega came in 2012. This model was based on the Planet Ocean Ref: 232.30.42.21.01.004. It featured a textured dial with the 007 logo at the 7 o'clock position, and a 007 decorated rotor visible through the case-back.[83]
In 2015 two commemorative models were produced for the 24th Bond film, Spectre: the Omega Seamaster 300m master co-axial Ref: 233.32.41.21.01.001. 7007 units were produced, and came with a NATO strap as well as the standard bracelet. The watch also featured a bi-directional bezel with a world timing scale rather than a diving scale present on the standard 300m.[84] The second timepiece for the film was the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m master co-axial Ref: 231.10.42.21.03.004. The watch was decorated with a textured dial based on the Bond family coat of arms, as well as with a rotor resembling a bullet and gun barrel with 'James Bond' inscribed.[85]
Sports sponsorship
Omega has frequently been the official timekeeper for the Olympics, beginning with the 1932 Summer Olympics. It was the official timekeeper for the 2006 Winter Olympics, 2008 Summer Olympics, and 2010 Winter Olympics.[86] In 2008, Omega brought out an Olympic edition with its logo on the second hand. Olympic swimmer and multiple gold medalist Michael Phelps is an Omega Ambassador and wears the Seamaster Planet Ocean. Omega is also the official timekeeper for the 2012 Summer Olympic Games.[87] In 2014 Omega became the official timekeeper of the 2014 Sochi Winter Olympic Games. The brand was a Worldwide Olympic Partner at the 2016 Summer Olympics.
Providing support to Emirates Team New Zealand and representing the team's official watch, in 2007 Omega introduced the Seamaster NZL-32 chronograph, with the name suggested by the name of the boat that won the America's Cup in 1995. The watch was developed in cooperation with Dean Barker, skipper of Team New Zealand and Omega Ambassador.[88]
On July 1, 2011 Omega became the official timekeeper of PGA of America through the signing of a five-year agreement that was to carry through 2016. The brand also sponsors the Dubai Desert Classic and the Omega European Masters.
See also[edit]References[edit]
External links[edit]
Retrieved from 'https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Omega_SA&oldid=901256539'
The Omega Seamaster is a line of manual winding, automatic winding, chronometer, and quartz watches that Omega has produced since 1948. The Seamaster is particularly popular among celebrities, with famous wearers including Prince William, Joe Biden, Jeremy Clarkson, Gabriel Holmes and Adam Savage. An Omega Seamaster typically has a stainless steel case and bracelet (Bond style with Omega symbol clasp), screw-in crown and case-back, engraved with the Omega hippocampus logo, up to 1200-metre water resistant, luminescent hands, unidirectional bezel, blue, silver or black dial with orange accents, sapphire crystal (anti-reflective) and helium release valve.
Models[edit]
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m/2000ft diving watch
Omega produces several models of Seamaster watches[1], with numerous variations of color, bracelet, movement, and casing sizes.
Omega Seamaster 120M Analog-Digital 'Multifunction' was introduced in 1998 and discontinued after few years, Fitted with Omega Cal.1665
History[edit]
Omega Seamaster (1960). Champagne dial, â 35mm, small seconds.
The Seamaster is the longest running product line still produced by Omega. It was introduced in 1948, and was loosely based upon designs made for the British Royal Navy towards the end of World War II.[3]
The original Seamaster's key feature was an O-ring gasket used to provide its waterproof seal. This design had been developed for use in submarines during the war, and turned out to also be useful for watches, where it made them much less vulnerable to temperature and pressure changes than earlier (lead or shellac) based gasket designs. The Omega Seamaster first made a diving record in 1955, when diver Gordon McLean reached a depth of 62.5 meters (205 ft) in Australia.[3]
James Bond[edit]
Omega has been associated with James Bond movies since 1995. That year, Pierce Brosnan took over the role of James Bond and wore the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Quartz in the movie GoldenEye. In all later films, Brosnan wore an Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Chronometer (model 2531.80.00). In most of Brosnan's 007 films, the helium release valve is transformed into improbable hidden gadgets such as a laser cutter (GoldenEye) or remote detonator (Tomorrow Never Dies).[4]
Before 1995, actors portraying James Bond had usually worn the Rolex Submariner (Reference 6538), albeit for a brief period where actor Roger Moore wore a quartz watch in the late 1970s.[4] The Bond film producers wanted to update the image of the fictional 'super-spy' to a more distinctly sophisticated 'Euro' look.[5] The main reason for the switch to the Omega Diver 300M for the Bond franchise is because of Lindy Hemming, a British woman, in charge of costume/wardrobe for the new movies. At the time she thought the Seamaster looked the part of a rogue special operative who also needed the ability to dress up. She recognized the history of Omega Seamasters in the British military (notably the Special Boat Service, synonymous with the character of Bond) which furthered her decision.[4]
The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M, commemorative edition for the 40th anniversary of James Bond with 007 logos. The second crown (at 10 o'clock) is a Helium release valve to allow helium out of the watch after wearing the watch in a diving bell with an atmosphere rich in helium.
For the 40th anniversary of James Bond (2002), a commemorative edition of the Diver 300M chronometer was made available, model 2537.80.00 (10,007 units). The watch is identical to the model 2531.80.00 except the blue watch dial had a 007 logo inscribed across it and also machined into the case-back. The band also had 007 inscribed on the clasp.[6]
Daniel Craig, the current James Bond of Casino Royale, Quantum of Solace, Skyfall and Spectre, also wears the Omega Seamaster: the Seamaster Planet Ocean and Seamaster Diver 300 M in Casino Royale, and even goes so far as to mention Omega by name in the film when questioned by Vesper Lynd. In connection with the launch of the film, Omega released a 007-special of the Professional 300M, featuring the 007-gun logo on the second hand and the rifle pattern on the watch face, this being a stylized representation of the gunbarrel sequence of Bond movies.[7]
Omega released a second James Bond limited edition watch in 2006. This was a Seamaster Planet Ocean model with a limited production of 5007 units. The model is similar to what Craig wears earlier on in the film; however, it has a small orange-colored 007 logo on the second hand, an engraved case-back signifying the Bond connection, and an engraved 007 on the clasp.[8]In Quantum of Solace, Craig wears the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean with a black face and steel bracelet (42 mm version). Another limited edition was released featuring the checkered 'PPK grip' face with the Quantum of Solace logo over it.
The Seamaster Professional Diver 300 M and then later the 600 M Planet Ocean was worn by James Bond in five Bond movies. These Seamasters are made of stainless steel on a stainless steel bracelet, fitted with a blue dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with blue ring and a sapphire crystal.[9]
Co-Axial Movement[edit]
The term Co-Axial represents a specialized watch escapement exclusive to Omega that was developed in 1970 by British horologist and watchmaker George Daniels. The Swiss Lever escapement has been the standard in horology for hundreds of years. The escapement provides the release of energy from the mainspring to the going train that further controls the function of the moving parts that measure time and other complications. The Swiss lever, although the mainstay in the industry, has the capability to be strong on energy conservation but needs considerable lubrication between the impulse pallet and the escape wheel teeth due to sliding friction. This causes considerable wear on the lubrication over time and may cause wear on the pallet or escape wheel. Because of this, regular service (4â5 years) is recommended to clean, lubricate, and possibly replace parts.[10] With the co-axial escapement, the impulse is done with a push to the jewels rather than a sliding fashion. In this design the work is divided between two major wheels of the escapement. Daniels brought his desire to industrialize his escapement to many Swiss manufacturers and he was ultimately denied. Omega in 1999 took on Daniels design with the insight of Nicolas Hayek who saw Omega as a brand of innovation and creativity who would rise to the top of the Swiss horological spectrum with the production of the co-axial escapement. He was right and Omega is one of the largest Swiss manufacturers and the second largest producer of COSC Officially Certified Chronometers, next to Rolex with Breitling being third, with every one of their movements COSC chronometers. The first co-axial movement to be brought to the public was the Omega cal. 2500, with different variations being listed as A, B, C, and D. This movement was built from the Omega 'in-family' cal. 1120 (finished chronometer grade ETA 2892-A with two extra jewels) A, B, and C are similar two tier co-axial movements, but C is the first version to solve certain problems prevalent in A and B. For example, the vibrations per hour were originally 28,800 (standard for most Swiss watches with Swiss Lever Escapements) but later lowered to 25,200 (7 vs 8 v beats a second). This change was noted that it was the optimal working vibration of the movement and may contribute to lower service intervals. The Co-axial D variation was made to allow for an even more efficient 3 tier escapement. This development of technology helped the company innovate the 8400 (no date)/8500(w/date complication)/9300 (chronograph) three tier in-house movements. The co-axial D variation is still made specifically for the Omega Diver 300m co-axial. The Diver 300m, a watch produced since 1993 has a certain shape and size that is characteristic of this watch, the 2500 is slender enough to keep the case shape and size proportionate on the Diver 300m (also known as the SMP).
Master Co-Axial/ Master Chronometer[edit]
The next generation of watchmaking focuses on anti-magnetic movements. According to studies by the COSC, the majority of watches in for service from 4+ years are primarily suffering accuracy issues due to magnetized movements. Many Swiss watch institutions have made additional efforts to alleviate the problem of magnetization. Some of the technology and practices include iron cages around the movement, silicon hairspring (Omega) (spring in the balance wheel of the escapement), Parachrom hairspring (Rolex), induction of plastic parts, and using non-magnetic metals. Only until recently has any watch maker made a fully anti-magnetic movement. The first watch with over 15,000 Gauss was the Omega Aqua Terra Gauss. The first full anti-magnetic movement and Master Chronometer certified by the COSC is the Omega Constellation 'Pie-Pan' Globemaster. This movement is capable of having a see-through case-back (the cal. 8400 in the new SM300) characterized by a movement with fully anti-magnetic parts. This is the beginning of a new generation of watch movements, re-institutionalizing the mechanical movement that once was deemed obsolete by the quartz movement of the 1970s to the present day.
See also[edit]References[edit]
External Links[edit]
Retrieved from 'https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Omega_Seamaster&oldid=900889531'
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